To get started you will need the following tools.

• Drill
• Sandblaster
• T Drives
• Jigsaw
• Brake parts
• Angle grinder
• Welder

Step One:

If your going to build a racing lawnmower you will an old second hand one if you do not already have one. Remove all the parts from the old mower, except the chassis. Use your sandblaster to clean all the dust and rust and other debris from the surface and under carriage of the chassis.

Step Two:

Now you must strengthen the chassis. Always use metal for any components located on the rear axle. It might be a good idea to get professional help with welding the parts as the rear axle needs to be the strongest part of the drive train. Once the parts are welded, assemble the rear axle. To guarantee that the assembly is exact you might want to hire the services of a precision engineer.

Step Three:

Once the back axle is installed, you will need to make the cutout for the engine plate. You can use either the jigsaw, hole saw or drill for cutting the plate to size. Next you will have to prepare the steering wheel, engine and wheels. Check with the local newspapers for cheap parts or even go to the junk yard. Go cart stores and online are other excellent places to find parts.

Step Four:

The next step in building your racing lawnmower is to connect the steering set to the chassis. For safety purposes always wear goggles when you are welding. Once the steering set is connected, you need to set the wheels, tires and back axle. If you have never done this, get some tutorials or the help of a professional or someone who has experience in fitting the parts. Now fit the brake caliper and customize your pedals to make sufficient room for the brake, clutch and accelerator. Last to be fitted are the engine, pulleys, belts and clutch. You will need a steering wheel and seat also.

Now take your new racing lawnmower out for a test drive. This will give you some idea of how well it operates and give you the opportunity to check the steering wheel and brakes.

Step One:

First of all you want to choose a location to build where the water is calm but still deep enough to be a suitable raft launching spot. You don’t want a spot that gradually drops off to deeper waters but not one that drops off too quickly either. What you are looking for is a miniature continental shelf. Ideally you are looking for a spot that drops into the water abruptly but then be only about 2´deep. When you are finished, it will be much easier to board your raft.

Step Two:

Now you need to gather up enough suitable logs. The logs should all be about 8 feet long, and depending on how heavy you and your supplies are you will need 5-6 of them. You will want to get two of the slightly curved to act as stabilizers.

Step Three:

Once you have the logs that you will need, find several strong sticks. You won’t need any rope to hold it all together because you will be laying down the sticks crosswise to the logs. If you lay them down perpendicularly to the logs it would be impossible to sit without falling off. You might want to gather another stick, longer and thicker than the rest, to use as a paddle.

Step Four:

Let´s put everything together now. Arrange the logs in a way so they will not roll out from under you. To accomplish this place the logs into the water and test each one, rolling it over, and check the direction of the roll. Find two logs that are the most unbalanced. These are the ones that you will use as crosspieces, to hold the raft together. Lay the sticks that you gathered perpendicular to the logs. You will need to find the perfect point of balance for this so try placing one stick and putting your weight on it. If it doesn’t push the logs down evenly correct the location of the stick until you find the best, most well balanced spot. Once you’ve located it, lay down the rest of the sticks on either side of the first.

Step  Five:

Now you’re ready to jump aboard and shove off. Stand above your raft with a leg on either side and slowly sit until most of your weight is on the raft. Have your paddle ready. If the raft is balanced, pull your legs up on either side and get as comfortable as possible. Slowly push off from shore.

Step One:

First make sure that you have the correct kind of soil. Sandy but not all sand (50%-70%). Not too much clay either, or the walls will shrink and crack. Take a sieve, spread out a tarp and filter out all the rocks and roots. Turn your earth into sandstone the same way nature does, with pressure. Spread out your tarp to protect your earth from participation. More than 10% moisture and the earth won’t hold its shape.

Step Two:

Your foundation will need to be reinforced concrete. Extend it from about 12” both above and below ground. If you live in a cold climate you might want to go as deep as 24” below. Lay the foundation in 8´sections, each dovetailed into the next with reinforcing rods. The forms will be about 12” wide and taper to 8” at the top, then out to 12” at the bottom. Use 2 x 6 planks, lined with building paper and strengthened on the outside with 2×4 uprights. Prepare your concrete mix from 1 part cement, 2 of sand, and 3 of gravel. Once your first sections are dry remove the plank forms and move to the next section. Frame the door and window openings as you go along and brace them well.

Step Three:

Set all the forms before you begin to ram the wall. The South Dakota State College bulletin 277, Rammed Earth Walls for Farm Buildings is a good tutorial. If you are working alone use 5/8” marine planking, it’s lighter and very strong. Line the wooden molds with shoot steel and reinforce with 4 x 4 uprights. The molds should be about one foot wide. Shovel a 4” layer of dirt into the form, pound the earth until it rings like rock, and then repeat. The rammed earth hardens as it dries so you can remove the forms as soon as they are filled. Stagger the joints in each course.

Step Four:

The library is loaded with books on how to build a roof, frame a window and wire your new house. Concrete frames are best because they do not warp; only slant the lips to the water drips away from the earth wall.

Rammed earth homes are energy efficient, long lasting and easy enough for one person to build. Since most of the walls are earth, i.e., dirt cheap, they are inexpensive also.

• Wood,
• Nails and screws
• Pink foam
• Carpet samples
• Bricks and a gutter
• Rubber treads and masking tape
• Black colored PVC

The tools used to complete this project are as varied as the materials. A good posthole digger, tape measure, tin snips, claw and framing hammer, caulking gun screwdrivers hand saw and hacksaw, staple gun and chisel.

Step one:

Check your local building codes before starting construction. Measure the ground to get the length of the materials needed. For every inch of elevation, 1`will ne needed. Square the landing 5`on either side with batter boards. After measuring one, place the ramp edges with the help of the batter boards. To make a perfect triangle you will have to use the 3 4 5 triangle principle to square and level the positions of for the ramp.

Step two:

Now create a solid base for the ramp by digging in about 3¨into the ground. You can place the post locations using the masking tape or a plum bob, if you have one, and some powdered chalk to transfer the marks to the post. Once this is done, make your post holes 6” deep before retying the lines indicating the exterior post faces.

Step three:

Now that the ramp is set up, fill the tubes with concrete. Use premixed concrete for the best results and make sure that all of the air bubbles are eliminated. Let the posts dry for about two days before beginning to work again.

Step four:

Once everything that you need is set up, cut some crossbeams in the same length as the exterior faces. Make some holes for the bolts on the beam. Use your washers to make sure it is firmly secured. Reinforce the landing joists with the running joists, making sure that the landing joists are laid out and cut to fit exactly in the sides between the posts. Test your ramp by stepping on it and doing a few trial shakes.

Building a ramp doesn’t have to be expensive or difficult.

Step One:

Chose the type of engine you will use. This heavily depends on the type of frame you have and how much weight you will need your engine to push along. Really the biggest consideration is your budget. If you can afford to shop around for an engine, online a new, you will be looking for something based on performance specs. If you’re on a budget the best option is probably your local junk yard or pick-a-part.

Step Two:

Next you will have to either build or buy a frame. Rat rods allow a great deal of latitude here as long as your frame is strong enough no to fall apart under the pressures of speed. Whether you are building or buying light weight metals are the trend now but will cost you a lot more.

Step Three:

Now, its time to mount the engine to the frame and get your power components operational. These components’ include things like battery, transmission, wheels and axles. If you’re starting your rod with a junked car finding these parts will be easy and you may still have operational ones attached to the frame. If not any junk yard will have what you need. Things like an electrical system are after thoughts. A true rat rod usually isn’t street legal.

Step Four:

Now that you have all the components’  installed, test to make sure the engine will start, run and turn the wheels. Once you have that accomplished and everything is working to your satisfaction the rest of the rod is easy.

Step Five:

You’re almost finished. Install the steering control, gas and brake pedals. Exactly where you place them is up to you. Again, your rat will not necessarily be street legal. You do however have to make room for a seat that can reach all of the controls.

Step Six:

This is the last step. Finish up the body and interior. The inside can be as fancy as you wish, or not, but keep in mind that anything that you add also adds to the weight. If you add body panels, keep in mind that they should either increase or decrease you aerodynamics, or, like a spoiler, increase your tire grip. Any body panels will also increase weight. And painting frames does not increase your speed.

Rat rods are fun to build and race. Simple to build and maintain and a good time for the whole family.

The first thing that needs to be done is to select the design of the box. The design would depend upon the size of the dog and the amount of space available in the truck bed. The box should occupy the minimum amount of space, but at the same time, the pet should also be comfortable inside it. On an average, the box should be 39’’ long, 24’’ wide and 22’’ high. As far as the resources of the design are concerned, lots of options are available like internet, television, movies, magazines, and so forth.

Once the design has been selected, its time to choose the building material. Aluminum is considered to be a good choice because it is light weight. Other metals and toughened plastic are also considered to be equally good. If wood is used for the dog box, then it should be weather resistant. Cut the chosen building material into six pieces depending upon the dimensions.

The dog box should be properly ventilated. Hence, on the two sides of the box, cut small holes. Do not cut holes on the top or bottom, else water can penetrate inside the box. After the holes have been made, sand the edges as these may cause injury to the pet. On one side of the dog box there should be a door for the safe entry and exit of the pet.

The next step is to assemble the unit. Use weld or bolts to put the parts together. Ensure that the door is properly attached to the box and opens easily to allow the dog to slip out. When the box has been assembled, sand the exterior and give it a fresh coat of paint. Install the dog box on the truck bed with the help of bolts. Thereafter, make the interiors comfortable for the pet. Test the dog box without the pet. It shouldn’t move or shift even on the rough road. It should be well-ventilated, snugly and cozy. Inspect the interiors carefully, it should be absolutely safe and secure.

The basic components of a rocket are the cylindrical body, nose cone, three fins for stabilizing, and, of course the engine. It is very important that the nose cone have a parachute attached so that the rocket can float safely back to earth.

Step one:

Attach the nose cone to the rocket. What type of glue you use depends on the material of that the cone and body are made of. While wood glue can be used on cardboard it will not work on plastic with which plastic cement has to be used.

Step two:

One of the most important features of your rocket is the aerodynamics is vital. To make sure that your rocket is aerodynamic the fins have to be sleek and smooth to allow easy passage through the air and to keep it from being weighed down. It’s best to make your fins out of balsa wood. Make a template of the fins and place it on the wood to trace the shape. Cut the wood with a craft knife and sand the wood to make it smooth. Now you can attach the fins to the body with the glue of your choice.

Step three:

The engine mount is attached to the body of the rocket, just below the fins. To attach it securely, the glue should be applied with a cotton swab to the mounts exterior, firmly fastening it to the rockets body. An ignition system will be needed to start the engine. You can get one easily from the same source that sold your engine.

Step four:

Once your new rocket is assembled you can jazz it up any way you would like with some paint. Along with making your rocket look good, paint plays an important part in aerodynamics and applying more than a few light coats can help the rocket travel smoothly through the air.

Once you have mastered building your rocket, fire it up. It may not be the Starship Enterprise but if it goes straight up you’ve got a working rocket.

Step One:

Understand how roller coasters work. The only actual power needed can be easily obtained from a simple electric motor and that only to pull it up the first hill. The length of the track is up to you. The longest in the U.S. is about a quarter of a mile, but yours will be significantly shorter. Determining the height of the first hill is crucial so do that first. This is the height that determines the speed that the coaster will have to have to travel around the track. The best height for the first hill is 262 feet.

Step Two:

The next step is figuring out your slopes. The coaster relies on the force generated by the first slope, of the first hill, to travel the entire path. The best slope is one with a curve at the bottom of with a flat path. Now determine the second slope, or exit path. This is the slope that the coaster will maintain its speed after travelling down the first hill. The exit path needs a low slope to maintain a safe exit out of hill number one.

Step Three:

Now follow the same procedure with the calculations of the second hill. This one is just as important as the first hill because the second hill maintains the speed of the coaster, and gives the riders the feeling of weightlessness. This hill is ideally about 230 feet.

Step Four:

Adding a loop is your last step. This will give the riders a more exciting ride in terms of speed and feeling the yank and tug of gravity. You can use either a perfect circle loop or an elliptical loop, but whichever you chose, it must be 115 feet high.

Now all you need to do is fasten your tracks and cars to the frame, hook up the power and you’re ready to start screaming.

You will need basic hand tools as follows: claw and framing hammers, tape measure, hacksaw and wood saws, level, combination square, wrenches, ladders, felt tip pens and pencils, nail gun, chisel, tin snips, caulking gun, blue prints and nail sets.

Step One:

First of all, check to make sure that the rafter ends are in the correct position. For the ends to be correct the walls must be parallel to each other. Install the sheets properly from the base to the top. If they are not, raise them in four inch increments, carefully dividing the last roof sheet for easy placement. Place the mark for the sheeting parallel to the rafters. Be aware of the local codes. They will be an excellent guide to where you should place the nails.

Step two:

Never secure the rafters at the edges of the roof until the adjoining sheets have been nailed. This will allow you to move the location of the rafters if you need to. Stagger the joints of the roof sheathing for the different courses. Now divide a part into two parts so that you can utilize these as roof sheaths.

Step Three:

Now use metal clips to strengthen your work. Check your work every so often to make sure that everything is lined up properly, and check each slope individually. You can cover your roof with weather protection, such as shingles, tar or tile. Remember to keep in mind the weight of the materials and how it will affect the strength of the roof.

Now you have a roof that will protect you home and last for many years to come.

Step One:

Your robot will need a body. Without it, it’s nothing but collections of servos and sensors, and a wheel or three to give it mobility. While materials may vary in the details most robots have similar structures and forms. The body is usually constructed of a few layers of sheet metal. Strapped to the chassis are the motors and sensors, the tools that the robot uses to move about and interact with its environment. Atop this layer are the chips and motherboards or the brains of the robot. Form a circular shell of your sheet metal and weld on a bottom. Attach all of the sensors and motors to the bottom of the open container that you have formed. Above this create a level for your electronics (computers) and secure it to the sides securely.  Some people add a third layer, which may contain cameras or some kind of cargo- a payload. Of course your design should consider what it is that you want the robot to do but if you are a new designer start small.

Step Two:

In much the same manner that people possess a selection of sensors (eyes, ears, touch) that help them interact with the world, robots must have this ability. While there is a wide selection to choose from your robot will need a minimum of some type of infrared or Sonar devise that will allow it to see where things are in relation to it self. Place your sensor package near the bottom of the chassis and its receptors appropriately, allowing it “vision”. A 360 picture of the world. Next connect the robots actuators, or its muscles so that it can move around and react to the world.

Step Three:

Ok. Now your robot can see, feel, and move around the world. It needs to be able to learn what to do with the information that it collects. Most robots need a small on-board computer that takes data from the sensors and translates it to motor movement. Good starter chipsets are those that use a programming language that you are familiar with or one that is easy to learn. C++, QBASIC are a couple of good starter languages. Later you will be able to use fuzzy logic which will allow your computer to make decisions with little experience and outside your programming.

Now you’re finished. Remember that you will want to start with a very simple robot. You won’t come out with Asimo on your first try.

Learn more on How to build a robot.